Concrete Elbow by Steve Tignor - Roland Garros, One Sight at a Time
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Roland Garros, One Sight at a Time 05/31/2010 - 3:22 AM

Rg You begin a trip to the French Open looking for the French in it. As you make your way through the mass of humanity on the central pathway at Roland Garros, you notice the foreign elements: A happy cry of “C’est bon!” out of one ear, an abrupt “D’accord” out of the other, and, for the first time in years, the scrape of a metal cigarette lighter right behind you. You notice strange brands of sneakers, women with big round brown eyes, men wearing pink scarves, scowling teenage boys with their hair combed from one ear to the other, giggling teenage girls gathered in a circle, whispering.

Teenage boys scowling. Teenage girls giggling. Does that sound very foreign to you? Don’t you see that every day in every town in America? By the end of the first week at the French Open, you might stop noticing the French in it as much. You might, if you’ve been to Wimbledon and the U.S. Open, begin to think that the audiences—sporty, casual, upper middle class—at these three tournaments aren't all that different for each other. If anything, it’s the crowds at Flushing Meadows that stand out as the ritziest. The division between day sessions and night sessions at the U.S. Open, which doesn’t exist (yet) at Wimbledon or the French, has created a fan division—bus-trip families during the day; black-clad Manhattan Martini-drinkers at night—that you don’t find here.

So on my last day at Roland Garros, on the tournament's middle Sunday, after a week of acclimating myself to the talk and the smoke, I took my notebook and braved the cold air and the low clouds to see what the French Open looked like, one item at a time. 

I found:

 —Security guards and ushers in spiffy red Roland Garros blazers calling out avancé! avancé! outside the front gates. If you come to the tournament, this might be the first word you hear as you make the long walk from the metro along the Bois de Boulogne to the tournament grounds. The ushers and security guards yell it for minutes on end at the crowds swarming toward them. The idea is to herd—advance—as many people on to another, less-crowded gate down the block. Short of that, the idea is to get them out of the guards' faces as soon as possible.

—The words Simple Dames at the top of the big women’s draw on site. It means “women’s singles.” As funny as it looks, I like the words above the men’s draw even more: Simple Messieurs. I imagine it as an encouragement: “Here, let me show you, it’s simple, messieur.”

The smell of cigarette smoke drifting in from my left. Its warmth feels and smells good on a cool day. The black woman in jeans doing the smoking is taking her time and savoring her cigarette. She looks nothing like a harassed American office worker guiltily puffing as fast as possible so no one glimpses her shameful act. At least you can enjoy your cancer sticks here. At the moment, this one looks pretty tempting.

—One Franklin & Marshall College hat. One retro San Diego Padres jacket, 1970s vintage brown (a very cool uniform, now that I see it in Paris 30 years later). One Los Angeles Lakers sweatshirt.

—One woman in flip-flops. I’ve never seen much of this standard U.S. clothing item here. I’ve learned, very rapidly, that I can live without its flapping sound.

—One young woman, with a smile and a tilt of her head, selling daily programs. This may be the only thing that is incontestably better at Roland Garros than it is at Flushing Meadows. In the past in New York they’ve been sold by a man—no, a guy—who tirelessly bellows, like a hot dog vendor at a baseball game, “Pro-grams, get your official U.S. Open pro-grams right here!” The young Frenchwoman is not bellowng. I doubt she could bellow if she tried.

—Ten people at the top of Suzanne Lenglen stadium, bored by the admittedly boring match between Robin Soderling and Marin Cilic. They try to start the wave during each changeover, but it fails to catch on. They boo the rest of the crowd.

—One thin blond girl at a Haägen-Dazs stand, in a beige jacket that’s much too light for the current temperature. She wraps herself up in her arms. There are no customers for the ice cream she’s selling.

—One young couple kissing next to a sandwich stand. The man, taller, brings his hand out and considers wrapping it around his girlfriend’s back. Perhaps remembering that he’s in public, he lets it drop at the last second.

—Flavia Pennetta, in tennis clothes, with a titanic racquet bag slung over her shoulder, texting.

—One immaculately dressed young brother and sister duo walking down to the pricey seats in Lenglen. He’s in a navy checked suit and pinstriped shirt. She’s wearing a black dress and has her pulled back like a woman 25 years older. Finally, two people I can look at and say: Parisians.

—Three or four young men in various places wearing backwards baseball hats and sweatpants. Two of them are eating pizza as they walk, something my high school French teacher said no self-respecting French person would ever be caught doing.

—Two chefs, in the press dining hall, in stained white chef shirts, sitting back and enjoying their own meal after dinner hours for the media are over. Their hair is still sweaty. They’re smiling broadly.

—John McEnroe walking toward me. He’s heading right in my direction, but swerves out of the way when he sees someone—me—coming at him. I can now say that I have had an affect on John McEnroe’s life.

—A pair of young ushers at Chatrier stadium, one man, one woman, dressed in cream and red Roland Garros usher uniforms. I’ve walked past them dozens of times every day for the last eight days. They’ve been standing the entire time. Finally, today, the girl is sitting down on the staircase that leads to the court. She looks guilty, but too tired to do anything else.

—A chair umpire on Court 1 quietly intoning, “Egalité.” This is the same as deuce—“equality”—which is odd, because as my friend Chris Clarey pointed out in a very good article for the Herald Tribune last week, “deuce” originally was French. It was a mispronunciation of the French “à deux," the same way “love” was a mispronunciation of the French word for egg, “l’oeuf,” slang for zero.

Tennis is a true mixed-breed of British and French—the word is spelled the same way in both languages. The English invented lawn tennis, but the French invented its ancestor, court tennis. “Tennis” comes from the French “tenez,” (“ready!”), the word that servers said to their opponents before they started a point. In case you’re wondering, the word “serve” comes from “service.” The royals who played the game thought putting the ball in play was beneath them. To begin a point, they said “service” to a minion, who would do the menial task of serving for them.

Rg-et Wimbledon may be the home of lawn tennis, but the French have a right to claim the sport as their own as well.

—At the end of the day, one light-skinned black girl waiting outside the gates for a ride home. She must work at the tournament, and she looks ready to get out of there. While she waits, she stands and looks up at the trees across the streets. She blinks many times before she drops her eyes down again. She’s thinking about something. Something other than tennis.

—In the distance, peaking over the stands at Lenglen, the Eiffel Tower. The symbol of Paris is never too far from view. Parisians may not notice it anymore, but I’ve yet to grow tired of its presence, which seems to me to be a miraculous mix of the industrial and the romantic. I felt the same way about the Twin Towers. I still miss those, and am happy to have a chance here to look up again and see something that everyone in the city can share, something that lets you know, in case you’ve forgotten, that you’re in a great place.

*** 

So maybe it’s a good time to leave. The city and the tournament don’t feel totally foreign, but it’s still a thrill to walk outside in the morning, see the café owner smoking his first cigarette, and think, “Oh yeah, I’m in Paris."

Pete Bodo takes over at Roland Garros today. See you from New York on Wednesday.


 
44
Comments
 

Posted by Alfred 05/31/2010 at 03:58 AM

1st....Ü

Posted by Alfred 05/31/2010 at 03:59 AM

...I'm still thinking.... of Maria....(sigh:)

Posted by Bob Gaffney 05/31/2010 at 04:03 AM

Thanks Steve, although the vignettes were Paris and Roland Garros for a moment they are a bit of all tennis tournaments. Enjoyed you French Open columns. Have a good trip back to the states.

Posted by Frantz 05/31/2010 at 04:23 AM

Steve, 'been lurking here (and everywhere people talk tennis, more or less) for years. Un-lurking just to say that your dispatches this week have been superb. Really. I'm sadder about you leaving Paris than about Sharapova losing to Henin .

Posted by Cotton Jack 05/31/2010 at 06:38 AM

"To begin a point, they said “service” to a minion, who would do the menial task of serving for them"

jokes, please, here:

Posted by felizjulianidad 05/31/2010 at 07:03 AM

Steve, FYI: an Italian designer acquired the rights to Franklin and Marshall College's image for sales in Europe. It's popular in Italy, and most consumers have no clue where Lancaster, PA is. How did you perform against them in tennis competitions?

Disclaimer: I'm a South-Western European and I spent 3 semesters at F&M.

Posted by RF007 05/31/2010 at 07:56 AM

Thanks Steve for all the great articles you've written throughout the week! Makes me want to visit Paris badly...

They should let you write for both weeks of all four majors/grand slams.

Posted by Dan Brack 05/31/2010 at 08:29 AM

I think that's "Avancez! Avancez!" actually

Posted by dawn 05/31/2010 at 10:28 AM

i was in paris for roland garros last year. work kept me from going this year, but your posts brought me there.

what can we do to convince the powers that be to let you attend every slam?

Posted by dragonfly 05/31/2010 at 11:23 AM

Steve, thanks for bringing us vivid images of Roland Garros this year. Your dispatches will be missed. What is your inspiration for your writing this time, who/what are you reading?

Posted by md 05/31/2010 at 02:28 PM

Steve,

Very enjoyable. Reminds me of the writings of Rex Bellamy. Well done.

Posted by thebigapple 05/31/2010 at 02:33 PM

I miss the Twin Towers as well.

Drat.

Posted by Skip1515 05/31/2010 at 02:41 PM

Even as someone who speaks French I've always thought of it as "men who are simple". (I know that's not right, just thought it was funny.)

Thanks for the posts. They've been great.

Posted by Dana99 05/31/2010 at 03:04 PM

Enjoyed this atmospheric piece. Made me wish I was there!! :)

Posted by Reader 05/31/2010 at 03:13 PM

Dan Brack - you are right, it's "Avancez", imperative in plural.

Posted by qt 05/31/2010 at 03:29 PM

stupis fellow,that steve.report on the tennis,not the backgound crap.where is his editor?hope they docl his pay foe this useless crud that nobody is interested in.did you also miss yourself in..diapers?

Posted by cami 05/31/2010 at 03:40 PM

very, very nice articles this week. now I'd like to go to RG just to see if it is how you described it :). paris is the best city in the old world. it's THE city.

Posted by Azhdaja 05/31/2010 at 03:42 PM

"Pete Bodo takes over at Roland Garros today. See you from New York on Wednesday."
--------------

I thought Serbs are taking it over. DJoko and JJ are in the Q/F. With great chances to make S/F tandem.
No other country achieved that.

Posted by Amoureux de tennis 05/31/2010 at 05:05 PM

"Pete Bodo takes over at Roland Garros today. See you from New York on Wednesday."

How very depressing to see him come and to see you leave, Steve. I have been enthralled by all your articles this week. They brought back so vividly the memories of Roland Garros from last year when I was there.

Waiting for your articles from the next grand slam.

Posted by MZK 05/31/2010 at 07:12 PM

Nice vignettes as usual, but this one - "One woman in flip-flops. I’ve never seen much of this standard U.S. clothing item here. I’ve learned, very rapidly, that I can live without its flapping sound" - made me laugh and nod my head in agreement. Luckily, we don't have to deal with them too much here in New York as compared to, say, Florida and SoCal.

Posted by MZK 05/31/2010 at 07:17 PM

Oh, and left out that that you touched a chord with your description of the Eiffel Tower and comparing it to the Twin Towers. Still remember pausing for several moments one night at reception in the office where I worked in Midtown at the time, on my way out after working late; we had a spectacular view, through the south-facing windows, of the towers. I thought to myself that I'd never grow tired of that skyline, even having grown up around here. That was on the 10th of September.

Thanks for the on-site reporting, Steve. Any revised guesses on the women's draw with Justine out? Hard to look past Serena but Jankovic seems to be getting her act together and took her out in Rome not long ago. Thoughts on the odds that Soderling or Djoko might interfere with the seemingly fated Federer-Nadal final?

Posted by Sammy 05/31/2010 at 07:22 PM

Another intimate look at a beautiful city/tournament from a talented writer with a very observant eye. Well done!

Two things though; I hope your were not making yourself too visible ogling the people (mainly girls, which is understandable :)) you described in minute detail, which some may consider to be stalking lol! And easy with the inaccurate French spelling/translation :)

Posted by The Hawk 05/31/2010 at 07:23 PM

The author may know something about tennis, but the remarks make it clear that he is inexperienced and uninformed about Paris, France, Europe, tennis around the world, etc. These are the uninformed observations of someone who knows little about the world....

Posted by David 05/31/2010 at 07:41 PM

So U do the first week and Bodo gets the "red meat" week---
Geez I tire of his writing. I much prefer your style.
The changing of the guard is going to take awhile, I guess.
Welcome back to NY...U get Brooklyn, he gets Manhattan.
The schism is clear...in many ways.
Must make for some interesting staff meetings at Tennis.
Hang in there, your base is growing.

Posted by Annie (Vamos Heavenly Creature) 05/31/2010 at 07:45 PM

Steve, thank you for your wonderful reports. I will miss them. Agree with David above. Your readership is growing. Doesn't seem fair that you can't stay for the whole tourney. You bring much needed color and humanity to your posts.

Posted by Legoboy 05/31/2010 at 07:59 PM

Thank-You for another great post! I really appreciate the way you interpret your observations and it makes me want to go back to Paris. And to think, I didn't even get to take in the tennis when I was there.

One point of interest, Duece in French is "Quarrant à" It's only the subsequent "Deuces" which are égalité.

A week well spent I hope!

Posted by Dunlop Maxply 05/31/2010 at 10:54 PM

Thanks for the great work. I was in Paris three weeks ago and your posts made it seem like I was still there. Looking forward to your Wimbledon coverage.

Posted by A fan 06/01/2010 at 12:01 AM

Ahh Flavia...the sexiest woman in tennis. I bumped into her at a breakfast bar a couple of years ago during Indian Wells. I did not recognize her at first. She head sweats and tee shirt and a baseball cap pulled low over her eyes, but still oozing hotness.

Posted by Codge 06/01/2010 at 01:22 AM

Truly enjoyed your week in Paris, right along with you.

Although it wasn't your first time, you're still able to see it through a virgin's eyes.

Next year campaign for the entire two weeks!

Posted by Batibut 06/01/2010 at 02:19 AM

i'll miss your posts steve... hopefully you'll do another for wimbly? :D keep writing.

Posted by Mr. and Mrs. D. 06/01/2010 at 06:26 AM

Hve enjoyed these posts very much. Thank you.

Posted by felizjulianidad 06/01/2010 at 06:38 AM

Hi Steve, in addition to the F&M comment, I've got another one: I've been consistently gravitating towards your posts in an incremental fashion - I don't just mean on tennis.com, but in general (I probably read over half a dozen tennis journalists in a couple of languages).

It's a pity you're not continuing at Roland Garros. Your writing combines a number of rare qualities: it is accessible to a wide readership, but there is an incredibly sharp focus to the details you squeeze, and they are coherently placed into a narrative that is elegantly elliptical.

Case in point, your Paris/NYC dichotomy post. Being neither a Parisian or a New Yorker (and only having been a tourist in both cities for a limited amount of time), I still felt that you had led us through a point and counterpoint of these two rival cities, with tennis as an ever-present backdrop. Though the speaker is an East Coast American, the voice was one that probably every reader could adopt as their own (or like to adopt). Not to make individious comparisons, but Peter Bodo (likable as a lot of his writing is), tends to "Americanize" a bit too gratuitiously - he'll attribute thoughts and expressions such as "what the hail" (which is delightfully, parochially American) to foreign players.

The tennis, too, isn't half-bad. The bull-ring article, in which you basically pledge undying fealty to the professionals and their insurmountably greater skills (compared to us amateurs, who hit the ball as slow as it looks on TV), really reminded me of times when I suddenly had to play with people way above my level - it becomes a viscerally different proposition, and you don't even see the court (field, in my primary sport) the same way.

Thanks Steve. Say hi to New York for us.

Posted by fedfan 06/01/2010 at 07:56 AM

Thank you, Steve. Hope you enjoyed your stay and had a good return flight.

Posted by susan 06/01/2010 at 08:14 AM

Chrysler building tops the Twin Towers (rip)

GOAT of all buildings.

Posted by Kristy 06/01/2010 at 10:03 AM

Steve, please believe the majority of the comments, which are overwhelmingly positive, and don't take note of the few that aren't. You have a growing fan base as Annie and others say. Being honest about confusion (and wide-eyedness) in a foreign country leaves you open to some criticism, but if you weren't honest, your writing wouldn't have the power and humor it does.


Posted by pov 06/01/2010 at 11:09 AM

Mr Tignor,
Two things:

1 - My first beef with you. "The black woman in jeans" . ??? So how is it that we aren't given the ethnicity of all the other people you mention. Are we supposed to think that people unadorned is a term that mean white man or white woman?

2 - Your last Sunday? Wtf? You're one of the preeminent English language tennis tournament writers. Tell whoever pays you to pony up for the full two weeks - at every major.

Thanks for the great articles and check those racial/ethnic quirks.

Posted by pov 06/01/2010 at 11:19 AM

"the same way “love” was a mispronunciation of the French word for egg, “l’oeuf,” slang for zero."
That is a completely unproven theory, most likely a myth. As if the French didn't have the word zero.
It is far more likely that the phrase originated in the concept that, since one hadn't won any points, they were only "playing for love (of the game)." This hasn't been conclusively proven either but currently seems more likely.

Posted by Gerry 06/01/2010 at 11:30 AM

Thanks Steve. This kind of stuff is what makes tennis stand apart from our domestic sports. We don't get too many stories about the people at the basketball arena in Orlando--although it might interest the French.

Posted by cmb 06/01/2010 at 02:59 PM

I've always found it odd that the writers on this site don't stay for the full tournament. It's a shame--I realize it's expensive, but it really is too bad.

I'll join the many others who really enjoy your writing, Steve. It's rare to read beautiful, thoughtful sports writing. Football (American) is my first love, and I definitely never read lovely things about that! Personally, I appreciate your attention to the "non-tennis" parts of the tournaments. You're filling in the questions we never thought to ask, most likely because no other sports writers (few, anyway) take us to those places for other sporting events.

"That is a completely unproven theory, most likely a myth. As if the French didn't have the word zero."

I did find this funny, pov. Having a word for zero doesn't preclude slang for it, does it? There is obviously a word for zero in English too, but think how many slang terms there are for it: nada, zilch, nil, goose egg. Maybe it is a myth (etymology can be tough to trace), but don't get too worked up over it.

Posted by Lynne (Rafalite) 06/01/2010 at 06:30 PM

Steve: Thanks for all your lovely articles this week. I will truly miss your "sights and sounds"

Posted by SteveO 06/01/2010 at 06:42 PM

Steve. Don't know if you read any of these comments but if Shakespeare came back as a tennis reporter this is what it would look like. Please don't ever stop.

Posted by Mr Rick 06/01/2010 at 07:50 PM

great piece Steve - my fury at French tennis fans has even cooled a few degrees - all because of this report. And yes, it's criminal that you don't get to stay in Paris for the two full weeks.

Posted by Mr Rick 06/01/2010 at 07:52 PM

oh, and for every person JMac tries to avoid, for sure there are about 937 who always try to avoid HIM

Posted by Pat frm Philippines... 06/11/2010 at 05:25 AM

love it steve...

sorry just reading your articles now...

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